Our Day At One of the Best Restaurants In The Caribbean: STUSH in the BUSH
I cannot tell you the countless amount of times that I’ve had some version of this conversation:
“Have you been to Stush In The Bush yet?”
“No enuh. I want to go so badly, but just haven’t had the chance yet.”
“WHAT!? WONGAGYAL!? YOU OF ALL PEOPLE DON’T REACH YET?”
The conversation usually trails off into some version of the other person recounting their experience at Stush In The Bush, and reiterating the fact that I simply HAVE to go. And while I always knew that I HAD to go and experience it for myself, I don’t think anything could have adequately prepared me for the absolute treat that Lisa & Chris have curated deep up in Free Hill, St. Ann.
Since I moved back to Jamaica in 2019 and started making a habit of going to food-centric events, Stush In The Bush has been on my radar. I would see and sample them regularly at the Jamaica Food & Drink Festival/Kitchen, Moda Market, etc. Despite being a ravenous and unabashed meat eater, I am always very curious about the creativity that exists within vegetarianism/veganism. My sister is vegetarian, and together we were raised to be very food-curious, and so though I will never give up meat, I can absolutely appreciate a meatless meal—especially one that involves a bit more than raw or unprocessed fruits, vegetables and beans.
Last summer, WongaMedia turned 3, and it hit me—let’s celebrate at Stush In The Bush. Only one of my team members had been there prior, and I thought it would’ve been a centering and holistic experience for all of us to share together. So we piled into 2 cars, and set our sights on Free Hill.
We followed the directions as shared with us beforehand, and came upon the, “three storey yellow house on the hill,” after an approximately 40 minute ascent from the Island Dairies factory in Priory. We parked on the roadside, and out popped a slender, dreadlocked, bare footed, salt & pepper bearded man donned in a beautiful lime green and yellow linen kaftan. Christopher Binns. He greeted us all with the kindest eyes and firm handshakes, and loaded all 6 of us into the back of his orange Amarok. From there, it was a short but scenic ride over an unpaved hillside to the Stush In The Bush HQ, which doubles as the Binns’ home.
We hopped out of the pick up, and were greeted by Chef Lisa Binns with warm encompassing hugs that were specifically left breast to left breast—a heart to heart welcome. We were immediately handed cocktails of guava tonics made with Jamaican made yellow yam vodka and topped with a sprig of thyme that somehow felt light, citrusy, bitter and earthy all at the same time. We sat by their newly installed “Bar In The Bush” under a canopy of humungous lush trees, enveloped in alternative jazz funk R&B music. It just felt dreamy.
Guava Tonic
Our mouths were then amused (amuse bouche) with the most delicate opening sweet treat of coconut yoghurt topped with a tangy passionfruit curd and basil gel, all nestled inside a cored out passionfruit shell that sat beside a crunchy tuile. Gimme 14 of dem please. I sat there in disbelief that this was only the beginning. I could’ve had 3 more of these amuse bouche servings, alongside my glass of all natural pineapple juice (non-sweetened freshly brewed iced lemongrass tea was also offered) and have been satisfied with the experience.
Amuse Bouche
then the Mezze table was presented.
Before we dug in, Chef Lisa formally introduced herself, her home and her bevvy of food to us. She gave us a bit of history of her and Chris’ relationship and how this place came to be—a true labour of unwavering love. She divulged that everything to hit our palates today would be made from scratch, and identified herself and this establishment as “locavorous” (meaning that the majority of ingredients she cooks with are sourced in Jamaica). It was refreshing to know that not only were we experiencing the flora of Jamaica on this property, but we would also be eating Jamaica. We saw Jamaica, we heard Jamaica, we smelled Jamaica, we touched Jamaica and we tasted Jamaica. What a treat.
Chef Lisa described the Mezze as a, “little bit of this, little bit of that.” Before us was a long and sturdy wooden table that seemed to grow out of the ground just like the hearty trees that surrounded it. The only difference was that instead of leaves, its bark was decorated with colourful plates of delectable food to be shared amongst all the guests (it also helps the metaphor that our plates were shaped like leaves too). Here’s the full Mezze menu that we had the privilege of indulging in that day:
Plantain chips, beet dyed dasheen chips, yellow yam & pineapple croquettes, almond hummus, toasted pumpkin hummus, nyamas (a vegan meatball) in ginger sauce, chimichurri, plantain cookup, callaloo gratin, accras with remoulade, smashed avocado (guacamole), breadfruit & oyster mushroom salad, and a fyah grilled pizza of basil pesto, coconut mozzarella, carrot lox, almond feta, red onion, dill, olives and capers atop a fermented rosemary infused pizza dough. All accompanied by a sweetie cherry tomato marmalade and the STUSH pepper duo.
If I explain the flavours of everything here, I might as well write a book. But just know that I need to experience this Mezze again. From the food to the ergonomic plates to the twigs used as forks, everything felt so intentional and curated, but organic—down to the ingredients and the flavours. The cheeses are all made in house. The sauces are all made in house. The pizza, the chips, the hummus, the… everything. All made in house. It is like a vegan savoury Willy Wonka factory that Chris & Lisa have going on in Free Hill.
People, I’ve only told you about courses 1-3. We have 5 more to go.
By now, the itis was about to set in, and Chris emerged to combat that with a tour of the property—the BUSH. He told us about his family’s history; of Free Hill being his ancestral home. We got an in depth tour of the flora that decorated the yard, accompanied by the occasional nudge from 1 of 4 dogs that call STUSH in the BUSH home. We learned about the Search Mi Heart plant that is native to Jamaica, and notorious for heart health (and curing heartache). I tried Noni for the first time ever—it tastes just like bleu cheese. And we cut open a fresh ripe jackfruit for us to share as we stood on the deck overlooking Free Hill to the Caribbean Sea while we swapped facts about history, zoology, culture, botany, and so much more. It was a truly communal experience. As a Jamaican myself, I couldn’t help but feel like this is what Jamaica is all about. This experience right here with Lisa and Chris.
Chris Binns
After our trek through the Binns’ yard, we were ushered into the formal dining space of STUSH in the BUSH. We sat at another sturdy wooden table dedicated for our group within the most cozy wooden cabin perched on the hillside, and surrounded by lush green trees.
WongaMedia 3rd Anniversary Welcome Sign
I cannot stop thinking about what an honour it is to be in a place that feels like home, despite being curated by people we’ve never really met before. Every detail of this magical place just oozes the love and care that Lisa, Chris and their team pour into it. It is a privilege to experience this.
Now for the main courses.
For our salad course, affectionately called “Gourmet Greens,” we have Avocado in Soil. Now I know you’re like WHAT. Because I was like WHAT. But this dish is what made me realize why STUSH in the BUSH is on the 2025 50 Best Restaurants in North America list (and maybe up soon for a Michelin star?). We affectionately called this a “Halfocado Salad” because that’s what it was—everyone got an entire half of a pear, sitting on a bed of black bread and chocolate soil, and decorated with focaccia croutons, plant based parmesan almond ricotta, fresh herbs, balsamic pearls, roquette, tatsoi & lemon balm leaves, caramelized onion puree, garlic aioli and scotch bonnet infused honey. And as an added bonus, we got lemon breadfruit and garlic chips as a vehicle for the creamy avocado.
Gourmet Greens: Avocado in Soil [“Halfocado Salad”]
Now, I am not an avocado fan, so unfortunately I could not indulge in this salad in its entirety, but I did have just enough to appreciate the creativity and decadence of this course. The croutons and the breadfruit were particularly fire.
For our soup course, known as “Sip & Bread,” we had a Roasted Pumpkin Bisque with Focaccia. The bisque was poured into our individual shallow bowls right before each of us, and the focaccia was incredibly fresh and herbaceous. The bisque contained coconut milk that was made from coconut jelly (rather than the hard flesh of mature coconut), which reduces the labour required to strain and is actually better for your heart. The warm spices warmed the soul as evening drew nearer. A perfect way to settle the stomach ahead of the courses to come.
Sip & Bread: Roasted Pumpkin Bisque with Focaccia
Then our “main course” took inspiration from Mexico as a Jackfruit Carnita with freshly made salsa, avocado, burnt scallion crema, jerk dust, a wedge of lime and a shishito pepper. The first time I ever had a shishito pepper was in Cartagena, Colombia, and the table loved them so much that we had to order another round—I actually have not had any since, so I was ecstatic to hear that I’d be having them again this evening.
Now you cannot tell me that this was not pulled pork. My gosh, the texture and flavour of the jackfruit was a proper dupe for a hog, and the sourness of the lime complimented that meatiness so well. Don’t get me started on the shishito—salted and blistered to perfection. I could’ve had 10 more.
Main Course: Jackfruit Carnita
Our palate cleanser was a Guava Nutmeg Sorbet, which felt like licking the tip of an iceberg on a humid day. It was so incredibly refreshing, with a lingering guava flavour that felt light but indulgent, with a punch of lime.
Guava Nutmeg Sorbet
And last but surely not least, our sweet ending of STUSH in the BUSH’s signature Beignets with Passionfruit Coulis—a great way to neatly tie the experience together by starting and ending with passionfruit. And even greater was that Chris & Lisa brought it to our table and lit a sparkler in celebration of our Wongaversary! The fried dough was topped with airy icing sugar that felt like a powdered snowcap atop a mountain of tender, fluffy and sweet bread. The passionfruit coulis added a citrusy tang that paired well with the full force of the sugar. It was the perfect end to a phenomenal meal.
Beignets with Passionfruit Coulis
All in all, the experience provided by Chris & Lisa was so immersive and simply blissful. Our team member, Sangee, at one point bursted out, “No man guys, life NICE.” And that’s exactly what STUSH in the BUSH encapsulates. It wasn’t just about the act of eating food. It was the appreciation of where the food came from, and how it is used to heal us. The organic feel of it all was a breath of fresh air.
We were the last group to experience STUSH in the BUSH before it got crowned the 49th Best Restaurant in North America, and the 2nd Best in the Caribbean (we’re assuming this since it was only one of 2 Caribbean restaurants to make the list). And what an honour it was to hear of this accolade from Lisa herself!
If you can, we highly recommend getting STUSH in the BUSH at least once in your lifetime. It is such an important piece of Jamaican culinary culture, and to know that it directly contributes to the livelihood of so many Jamaicans makes it all the more worthwhile.
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